Sunlight does odd things to Seattle. Brick buildings take on a golden
underhue, glass highrises sparkle against the city’s backdrop of water and sky,
and tight little buds on neighborhood trees fatten with promise. Trees that
have already exploded into blossom, whose colors have faded in the persistent
veil of grey, become spangles of pink or soft white. Best of all, the heavy air
lightens and becomes buoyant, floating people out of their houses and into the
street.
It becomes a city to rediscover, after months of ignoring
anything but indoor warmth and light. Yesterday I went exploring, under the
guise of grocery shopping, walking down streets I never had been on before, in
an old neighborhood that still has the comfortable, working-class homes of a
city where many workers can no longer afford to buy a house now.
The houses I saw were solid and modest, built for large
families with building materials that were durable and could hold up under one
of the area’s frequent earthquakes. There was very little pretension about
them, in common with the city where they were built. The money that built them
was made by longshoremen or loggers or fishermen. It’s easy to romanticize
honest toil, but as the daughter of a man who worked with his hands and his
back for most of his life, I’ve seen the pride that comes from making it
possible for a family to have a place of their own, after days and months and
sometimes years of hard labor. Sentimental I may be, but I believe there's nothing more satisfying than that.
Many of the houses from Seattle’s early years are going away as
working-class neighborhoods are being populated by a young demographic, many of
whom work with computers, their labor invisible. They live in thin houses that
are slivers compared to the bulky counterparts that used to be there, or in one
of the condominiums that have taken over Seattle’s
landscape so quickly that they seem to have sprouted up in a heavy rainstorm,
like toadstools.
Many of the old houses that are still in place have been
painted in whimsical, frivolous colors, pumpkin and purple, sun-yellow
with a dash of chartreuse, following the example of San Francisco’s Victorian Painted Ladies. They look out of place and bizarre, like a group of staid
grandfathers who suddenly decided to become drag queens.
It’s difficult to find the working-class neighborhoods that
were the backbone of Seattle.
It’s becoming difficult to find anyplace where workers can afford to have a
meal, a beer, a plain and simple cup of coffee. Buzzwords float through the air
that would have a grizzled longshoreman bemused—“artisan bread” “locovore
eating” “microbrews” “creative cocktails”—“What the hell?” he would snort,
“Bring me a cup of joe and a stack of hotcakes, will you? I’m hungry, damn it.”
It is a matter of class—the jobs that built this city are
gone. Well-educated university graduates wait tables and make espresso drinks.
The irony of their daily lives pervades their choices of what they wear, where
they live. They fill the saloons that used to cater only to men who had just
come off shift, their department stores are Value Village
and Goodwill. They flock to coffee houses , carrying laptop bags, buy a coffee
with an Italian name, and use the free wifi for hours.
They’re perhaps the lucky ones. To me, the ones whose lives are
blood-curdling are the people who work in Amazonville.
A Microsoft millionaire took one of Seattle’s
diner, tavern, and warehouse neighborhoods and almost overnight turned it into
a whole new city.
Usually areas go through a transition period—first the artists move in, then
the people with a tenuous hold on the middle class, then the affluent, giving
layers of different businesses, different demographics, different aesthetics to
the place where they live. Not in Amazonville—it is a planned urban village,
where the villagers live in new buildings, buy groceries at Whole Foods, buy
clothing at tiny boutiques, eat and drink at little “Euro-cafes” or glossy
restaurants that strive to create the next food trend. Its one burst of
obligatory irony is a Goodwill, which has the size and style to mirror any of the nearby
boutiques. A few brick buildings have
survived among the highrise office sites and apartment towers. There is no
bookstore.
People crowd the sidewalks at lunchtime, wearing the
tell-tale blue badges of employees from Amazon.com. The other residents are
unseen until much later; the empty streets of Amazonville prove to be
hospitable to people who have nowhere else to go, or for entrepreneurs of the
illegal kind.
My neighborhood is one of the most layered in Seattle—brick buildings,
some with terracotta facades, lie close to the street. Little groceries that
are among the few in the city that don’t sell beer and wine, bakeries that
serve plain old coffee and elaborately frosted slices of mango or durian layer
cake, a corner bar that has probably never made a cocktail that wasn’t a Bloody
Mary or a Screwdriver.
It was originally Chinese and Japanese, with a dash of Skid
Row denizens in the mix. Then came a large infusion of Vietnamese, followed by
people from Somalia, Ethiopia, Eritrea. It’s now a neighborhood
where African-Americans live near Africans, where pensioners are next-door to
an apartment housing rock musicians, where artists have studios near freshly
built “luxury” apartments and condominiums. The public library has a token
number of books in English; its reading area is colonized every day by old men
from the neighborhood, reading. The bank of public-use computers is usually an
offshoot of Skid Row, 21st Century-style.
It’s changing fast with the arrival of
the light rail and the approach of a streetcar that will connect my
neighborhood to downtown. There’s a sweet little boutique whose owner does her
best to serve all income levels. There’s a pinball museum and a vegetarian
pizza joint with a microbrew on tap. But so far, these only add texture to an
existing neighborhood, not transformation. The Microsoft millionaire had tried
to transform it; he gave up and moved on, leaving a few ugly glass office
buildings in his wake.
I live here because it still holds a community that is
living, vibrant, and evolving. With any luck at all, it will continue to be a
place where lion dances co-exist with pop-up art installations in empty
storefronts, where old men play chess in the park while old ladies sit nearby,
gossiping and little children try to catch pigeons, with lots of optimism and
absolutely no success. When that’s all gone, I will be too.