When I became a teenager, this was still a nascent category. My mother held the term in contempt; her generation went from being children to becoming young ladies and gentlemen. There was no middle ground.
Teenage girls when I became one were either bobbysoxers in rolled-up jeans and saddle shoes, or in full skirts and ballet slippers. Beyond that was really dangerous territory--we all dressed like matrons.
Look at the suits that Jackie Kennedy used to wear--with jackets that ended at the waist and straight skirts. Her shoes were utilitarian and well-bred. Jimmy Choo was what hookers would have worn. Those suits looked fantastic on Jackie and Babe Paley and the other trim, elegant social icons. Of course they did; they were cut in a Paris haute couture salon for bodies that were broad in the shoulders, slim in the hips. When translated to mass-markets like J.C. Penney or Ohrbach's and worn by women whose build was more in the peasant mode, they looked horrible. And when they were covering the bodies of adolescent girls, they looked even worse. Slender girls looked as though they were dressing up in their mothers' clothing and chubby girls looked like boxes. It was an ugly time for fashion in America.
"Good" coats were made of heavy wool tweed and were cut to go over a "good" suit. The shoulders were droopy and the arms wide; they hit the mid-calf, if the wearer had height, and the ankle area if she was short. They weighed about ten pounds and would have made dandy survival tents if they hadn't been wool and easily saturated by a rainfall. I hated my coats when I was in my early teens.
Then along came the British invasion with miniskirts and Courreges with body-skimming A-lines and Calvin Klein with coats that fit close to the body with narrow shoulders. It was a wonderful time for young women and we all happily threw away our garter belts and little white gloves. For me, clothes were fun--until about ten years ago, when I turned 55.
No matter how thin a woman may be at that age, put her in certain kinds of clothing and she looks absurd. The offending garments are all patterned after Paris Hilton et al, and are the kind that I privately call Trailer Park Chic. Skinny jeans, midriff tops, halters, skirts that look as though they were stolen from a drum majorette, leggings--or even worse, jeggings.
These are things that a 20-something can carry off. A 60-something looks at them and sobs. And yet that old hag has few alternatives, if she's shopping on a budget. (Yes, I love Eileen Fisher too--but can I afford her?) She can dress like a cruel parody of Kim Kardashian or she can go to hell in a handbasket, a polyester smock, and elastic-waist pants.
Frankly I'd rather wear rolled-up jeans and bobbysox. I frequently wear a printed, almost circle, skirt and a variant on ballet slippers. And I inwardly rage, rage against the dying of the light and charming pleasure that I used to find in wearing clothes that made me feel happy to get dressed in the morning.
(Just a simple cotton tunic top with long and narrow sleeves that hits just below the knee and a pair of black, well-fitting tights that don't cost as much as my weekly food bill--is that too much to ask? And bear in mind, the one who's asking is part of the Baby Boom generation--I'm sure many in my age group feel much the same way.)
Thursday, November 7, 2013
Wednesday, October 30, 2013
The Gift of Restlessness
Some people might think it's a curse. It's whatever was placed upon me at birth that turns me into a screaming witch if I am in one place for six months without leaving. When I return, I always am happy to be back--for six more months. Then the edges of my life begin to fray again and I have to go away.
It doesn't have to be a long absence, but it does have to include at least a couple of nights in another city, another region, another country. Somehow that works a strange magic on my discontent and when I come home, I feel grateful for familiar things that had grated on me before I left.
Yesterday after five days of being away from home, I walked to meet a friend for a glass of wine at a cozy little cafe that feels French to me. The tables are cheek-to-jowl close but every conversation is its own little realm with secure borders. A glass of wine becomes two, but never more than that, and the talk is always absorbing.
The street that takes me there is bordered with trees and yesterday they were in full autumn color, flaring with orange, scarlet, and gold. The air was crisp and almost cold and suddenly I was in an East Coast city, savoring fall.
There were new photographs that evoked Grimm's Fairy Tales at a gallery along the way, childhood scenes that were startlingly bright and hauntingly eerie. To clear my palate after that jolt to my imagination, I stopped for the first time at a Catholic chapel that was designed to evoke the cave sanctuaries where early Christians found refuge and spiritual solace. At least that's the way St. Ignatius felt to me, perhaps not to its architect.
I love finding a new dimension to the city I've spent many years in, but this only happens after I've abandoned it for a while. I'm lucky. Although I'm a perennial Prodigal Daughter, Seattle always welcomes me home.
It doesn't have to be a long absence, but it does have to include at least a couple of nights in another city, another region, another country. Somehow that works a strange magic on my discontent and when I come home, I feel grateful for familiar things that had grated on me before I left.
Yesterday after five days of being away from home, I walked to meet a friend for a glass of wine at a cozy little cafe that feels French to me. The tables are cheek-to-jowl close but every conversation is its own little realm with secure borders. A glass of wine becomes two, but never more than that, and the talk is always absorbing.
The street that takes me there is bordered with trees and yesterday they were in full autumn color, flaring with orange, scarlet, and gold. The air was crisp and almost cold and suddenly I was in an East Coast city, savoring fall.
There were new photographs that evoked Grimm's Fairy Tales at a gallery along the way, childhood scenes that were startlingly bright and hauntingly eerie. To clear my palate after that jolt to my imagination, I stopped for the first time at a Catholic chapel that was designed to evoke the cave sanctuaries where early Christians found refuge and spiritual solace. At least that's the way St. Ignatius felt to me, perhaps not to its architect.
I love finding a new dimension to the city I've spent many years in, but this only happens after I've abandoned it for a while. I'm lucky. Although I'm a perennial Prodigal Daughter, Seattle always welcomes me home.
Saturday, October 19, 2013
A Promise We Made, a Promise to Keep
I am a person who receives Social Security, and began to do
so just before I turned 63. Because I was for years a woman who didn’t work
outside the home and never remarried after my divorce, I became eligible for my
former husband’s benefit, which was double that of what I had accrued in my own
work history.
For twenty years, I had worked as a bookseller, first as a part-time
employee, then full-time as my children grew older. Over time, my back and
shoulders began to deteriorate and now I have almost monthly episodes of
debilitating pain, where my activity level sinks to absolute zero and I am
often sleepless, unless I take Advil PM.
My Social Security check is higher than most, thanks to my
husband. My own Social Security earnings have gone back into the system, so
that I am actually draining the fund only of what I earned myself. The excess
is offset by what I accrued and didn’t take. This is true of anybody who earned
a wage that was taxed for Social Security payments, and then chose to forgo
their earnings in favor of a spousal benefit instead.
I am part of the Baby-Boom Generation that exceeded in
numbers any that came before us. Most of us grew up in a time when the
unemployment rate was miniscule and we were blessed with jobs, unlike many in
our country today, The benefits we provided to our predecessors for Social
Security went to a smaller number of people than those of us who were providing
them—and in many cases our wages were higher than the money made by those who
went through the Depression. There
should have been a surplus of money but it was used for other purposes by our
government.
Now there is great concern for the generation that follows
us who are responsible for our benefits, and I share that concern. If our
government had repaid the money they have “borrowed” from the Social Security
fund, this would not be a flaming issue today. I believe our government owes it
to everyone, recipients of Social Security and those who are paying into the
system, to find ways to replenish the funds that were used for other purposes.
There should be an income-cap on those who receive benefits—people
with fat pensions should not receive a monthly Social Security check. Crack
down on under-the-table wages by giving anyone in this country a right to work
and the responsibility to pay into the system—then police employment venues notorious
for paying off the books (restaurants, landscaping businesses, sweat shops).
Within the realm of the Social Security Administration itself, there are people
who are capable of finding far more creative solutions than I, ones that will
not break the contract that has been made with the people of our country.
Much controversy rages over the cost of living increase of
Social Security benefits and I’m going to add to it. Stop it. It’s a joke. Last
year my increase amounted to $25 additional dollars a month. My rent also
increased by $25 a month. Food costs have risen quite a bit. That extra $25
meant nothing in the scheme of how I live my life. If it will help the system,
get rid of it. But also get rid of cost of living increases for our elected
officials in Washington, they who pull down very decent salaries and receive
health care subsidies too. Fair is fair, as we used to say in the schoolyard.
Speaking of health care, next month my check will be reduced
by $100 to help provide me with Medicare. No. It’s not free, for those who
labor under that delusion, and for those who receive less in their monthly
check than I, this is a steep cut in income. (I know because it provides a
substantial pinch for me.) It also is not a guarantee that we can get health
care when we need it. There are co-pays and out-of-pocket deductibles, which
not all of us will be able to afford. The medical establishment has come up
with credit cards for anyone to use, with exorbitant interest rates, so that
health care will be available to all—along with soaring debt. Is this the best
solution that America
can come up with?
I’m happy to have any sort of health care because I’ve gone
without it for decades. I have never accepted any sort of government assistance
as a single parent or as an aging woman with no health insurance. I have paid
into the system that now sends me a monthly check, with my own payroll
deductions and payments from my employers which otherwise might have come to me
as income. I never begrudged that bite into my rather meager salary because I
was helping to fulfill a promise that I believed in.
My generation believed in that promise. Now we are “a drain
on the federal budget.” To those who flinch at our numbers, I ask them to look
at statistics. More American women are dying at younger ages than ever before, and given
the frailty of approaching years, most of those women are the ones who are
aging. Men, of course, traditionally live fewer years than their female
counterparts. Just so long as our health care system, eager for Medicare dollars,
doesn’t prolong our lives with modern medical miracles, our shelf lives will be
short. Our Social Security checks will go back into the system for the next
generation, unless of course our government decides they need it more than the recipients
do.
Friday, October 11, 2013
Gaining Invisibility
My body is resolutely aging and the changes aren’t pretty.
Clothes at my favorite neighborhood boutique don’t fit me and the ones that
would in other places are ones I don’t like. The last time I bought something
to wear was at Old Navy last spring. Since I don’t have money, this is a good
thing. The surprise is how easy it is for me not to care.
Nor does the weight prey much upon my mind, but that I can understand: Thailand taught
me what weight loss really means. When the baht fell in the late 90s, I began
to miss a meal or two far more often than I wanted to. First I became slender,
then thin, then gaunt and haggard. My breasts disappeared and my face became drawn.
A photo a student took of me during that time showed a death’s head flashing a
rictus. I knew that losing another ten pounds could bring me to my knees but I
didn’t know how to stop, aside from leaving cigarettes alone. That thought
occurred to me no more than a couple of times. I told myself I needed them for
stress relief, but of course I was too addicted to consider that for more than
five minutes.
I came home to the states, put on some weight, and stopped
thinking of poundage as being my enemy. It was my insurance policy. Even now,
with my stomach becoming a small shelf, I look at this in a Thai way. I’m
almost 65 and old women look better when they are plump.
I think of the Chinese sisters who made noodle soup on the
corner of my soi. Each was plump and both were pretty. One was sweet and one was stern;
both of them liked me and I adored them. Across the way two other Chinese
ladies made the same kind of soup. They were lean and they were not at all
happy. Their soup was better than the one I ate several times a week, but I had
stopped eating it long ago. The plump ladies were more fun to be around.
When I stopped smoking seven years ago, I was still sporting
a figure that was much younger than my face. It yielded me nothing more than
the envy of women who were much younger than I and coveted my waistline, and
the comments of men hanging out on the street. “She old but she in great shape,”
one entrepreneur of dubious substances proclaimed as I walked past a McDonald’s
corner and another provided the generous assessment, “I’d fuck her,” on what was mercifully an almost deserted street.
Much has been written about the “invisibility” of women as
they age, and it’s usually in the form of a complaint. The women who rail
against this are stark, raving mad, as far as I’m concerned. From the time I
hit my teens, I withered under the calls of “Hey, baby” and piercing whistles.
When I lived in New York ,
the “visibility” that was mine when I walked past a construction site made me
want to shrivel up and die on the spot.
Even when I was pregnant with my first child at the ripe old
age of 21, as I walked down a street in Anchorage on a Sunday morning, a man
felt the need to remark, “Bet she wished
that she had danced all night nine months ago.” Believe me, this sort of
visibility is not the kind of thing that makes a woman feel special in any way,
and when I received my cloak of invisibility at last, it was a milestone. At
last I could walk in the world without being threatened or humiliated. It was
an acquisition as useful as my passport.
In the parts of the world where I want to be, old women
receive respect. Younger women receive ravenous attention, no less threatening
for being silent. In the part of the world where I live, I can walk for miles
without comment. I love it. Would this still happen if my body were slender?
Thank you, but I really don’t want to find out. My thickening body is a form of
protection and, for the most part, I appreciate every pound.
Except of course when I look at clothing that will never be
mine—but then I think of how much time and money I spent on my outer covering
over the years. I still love color and fabric and when I find something I like
that fits my body, it’s better than Prozac. It’s no longer an obsession,
however, and that feels good.
“You can’t just let yourself go when you get old,” a woman
twelve years my senior told me once to justify her extravagant wardrobe. I’m as
old now as she was then and my feeling is I’m not letting myself go, I’m
letting go of cravings. The Buddha, I tell myself, would understand.
Friday, October 4, 2013
Hello, Cambodia
Yesterday I made a short trip that took me farther away than
I expected. The review that I’d read in the local paper said I was headed for a place
with good, cheap Khmer food; Yelp was filled with young Cambodian voices saying
it had the food their grandmothers cooked. So I went to White
Center and found the spot wasn't too far from other places I'd been to in the area, housed in a diner with a little
grocery attached.
I was there to meet my son Nick and I was early so I went
into the grocery. The door was open, the counter was bustling, and the
customers were speaking Khmer, which I thought was a very good sign. A little
produce section had the pea-sized green eggplant that’s a major ingredient in
green curry, which I haven’t seen in this city for over a decade, so I was enchanted.
Going to the counter with that and a pack of phrik ki nu, I noticed the woman
in front of me had a little package of perfectly red rambutan. “You have that here?” I asked in delighted shock and
she led me to a pile of plastic-wrapped thorny red orbs.
I returned to Queen’s Deli, glowing with discovery and was
led to a table that was sticky from earlier inhabitants. I didn’t care, even when the laminated menu also turned out to be a bit worse for wear. I was dazzled by the choices, mostly soups, two
that claimed to be “ancient” and that I’d never seen before in any form. Others
were reminiscent of Thai dishes, and one had clear echoes of ragu.
I asked for appetizers—fried chicken skewers and nom krok,
prepared like kanom krok but “Not sweet,” I was told. Each of them could have
been their own meal, the cakes solid with a filling that was I think rice and
coconut milk, and the chicken was fried wings, absolutely delectable, a whole
plate of them.
My “ancient” soup was on the menu as being a noodle dish
with an assortment of vegetables. I thought it would be a simple, clear broth,
with noodles that I hoped would be thick, and chopped vegetables both in the
bowl and on the side. What I received were three hearty nests of kanom jeen
noodles, a cloud of finely chopped and sliced vegetables on the side, and a
bowl of green broth. I sniffed it and was amazed at its fragrance.
The beans that came with it were chopped as finely as if
they were chiles, the cabbage was in slivers and I think it was daikon that was
almost a dream of its former self, so fine that it nearly melted when I picked
it up with my chopsticks. And the banana blossom was in thin, concentric
circles, crisp and bitter. “This hasn’t been frozen, has it?” I exclaimed in a
state of near ecstasy and the man who was clearly the owner said proudly, “From
Florida.”
The broth was filled with flavors that were clear and yet
mingled into something that I couldn’t pick apart into its separate components. Fish sauce was plainly in
evidence but no coconuts had been brought into play in any form. Still the
broth had substance and I couldn’t decide where its body came from until I
neared the bottom of the bowl, where a layer of pureed aromatics rested. “Yes,
we thicken it with lemongrass, tamarind, and galingal,” the owner told us. At
that point I had to clamp my jaws together to keep from asking him to marry me.
Nick’s soup had a coconut milk underpinning but the flavor
of fresh vegetables was prominent in the broth. The vegetables were in small
chunks and their colors were still bright in the bowl. My soup, I decided, was
a very sophisticated form of kanom jeen
We crumbled our way through the doughnut and sesame ball
that were given to us at the end of our meal, and I felt a bit shamefaced when the
internal egg yolk that we’d avoided turned out to be a filling of yellow bean
paste and coconut.
Through our meal, the low murmur of old men speaking Khmer
and the sweetness of Cambodian pop music videos formed the background noise. I
left feeling warmed by Cambodia
and deeply happy that a part of a country I love is only a bus ride away.
Sunday, September 29, 2013
The World Is Too Much With Us
Anne Truitt writes in Daybook about the sounds of her childhood and those that her children had always heard. She had no Muzak, no droning voices coming from a TV set.
In the time when she became aware of the world, magazines were text-laden, not image-driven. Pictures to her were paintings, not photographs. Her life wasn't tranquil, there were cataclysmic wars and the Depression, but it was quiet.
Now silence is a luxury; people travel to experience it. Although I live alone and work at home, noise is a constant presence. The sound of jets, buses, street construction, passersby, the apartment-dweller above me who comes back home after the bars close--I never play music anymore and only turn on my television at night for baseball or a movie. Still I live with the constant presence of sound. I wear earplugs to bed and frequently turn on my bathroom fan to create a barrier of white noise.
Mornings have the closest approximation of silence and if I'm careful, my mind is still unrippled then. That's when words come most easily and the work that is truly mine takes place--but only if I ignore the icons on my computer screen. If I let myself click once, the world is with me and the morning becomes sociable. Because I live alone, that one click is perilously seductive.
My computer isn''t just my workspace. It's supplanted letters, the telephone, the daily newspaper, a set of encyclopedia. It's how I stay in touch (on a superficial level) with friends on other continents. It's immediate gratification, an instant cocktail party. It's becoming my memory in a way that frightens me--can't remember? Google it.
I could stop going to the grocery store if I chose to, forgo DVDs for "streaming," have conversations through a social medium. Why not? Already so much of what I used to enjoy comes through this screen. Sometimes I think the only part of my life that can't come through a computer is travel. It's why I yearn for the discomfort of being wedged into an airline seat for hours on end; it's one of the few inevitably raw acts in my life.
I wish someone would bring back the word processor, a glorified typewriter with no accompanying distractions. Without that, I have to learn not to squander the best time of my day by clicking an icon. It will all be there, the photos, the links, the badinage, the Scrabble game, the abbreviated letters, waiting for my tapping finger to bring it into being. But the work won't wait. It fades away with sociability, dissolves into a weird sludge of the mind and spirit if it isn't given voice.
Carrie Fisher once said "The trouble with instant gratification is it takes too long." She said that in the early '90s; today it's as quaint as any sentiment embroidered on a Victorian piece of needlework. Now the trouble with instant gratification is it can strain the muscles in your index fingers.
Monday, September 2, 2013
Not Everything Fits in a Capsule
Many thoughts occupy my mind but few of them fit comfortably in a blog post. It's not a matter of length, but of tone. Who wants to read about the feelings that come crashing in along with the arrival of a Medicare card? Or the realization that one is the oldest in an extended family but isn't ready to be a matriarch? Or what to do about back pain which seems to have ambitions of settling in for the long haul? Or about that fine line between solitude and loneliness?
Does anyone really want to know the "if a tree falls in the forest" feeling that comes after a book comes out into the world? Didn't think so,,,
What about the restlessness that erupts after being in the same place for two years? Yes, I'm yawning too.
The happiness that comes when the shape of a book is in place and it's ready for revision, which could be my favorite part of being a writer? The pure and wholehearted joy that descends after finishing all three books written by Jesmyn Ward and discovering that they fit into an intriguing whole piece of literature that stands up to frequent reading and re-reading? Close but no cigarillo. (Which brings up the strong urge I've had to start smoking again, if I could only afford that stupidity...)
The realization that economic class is as defining a factor in our country as race and the unexamined truth that huge amounts of money are spent by the powerful to conceal that fact? And the sadness that we have a president who would be listened to if he brought this up for public discussion, and yet he chooses to be silent?
Is the queasiness and waves of chill that I've felt for the past few days caused by swallowing unvoiced thoughts or is it the flu? "Horseman, ride by."
Does anyone really want to know the "if a tree falls in the forest" feeling that comes after a book comes out into the world? Didn't think so,,,
What about the restlessness that erupts after being in the same place for two years? Yes, I'm yawning too.
The happiness that comes when the shape of a book is in place and it's ready for revision, which could be my favorite part of being a writer? The pure and wholehearted joy that descends after finishing all three books written by Jesmyn Ward and discovering that they fit into an intriguing whole piece of literature that stands up to frequent reading and re-reading? Close but no cigarillo. (Which brings up the strong urge I've had to start smoking again, if I could only afford that stupidity...)
The realization that economic class is as defining a factor in our country as race and the unexamined truth that huge amounts of money are spent by the powerful to conceal that fact? And the sadness that we have a president who would be listened to if he brought this up for public discussion, and yet he chooses to be silent?
Is the queasiness and waves of chill that I've felt for the past few days caused by swallowing unvoiced thoughts or is it the flu? "Horseman, ride by."
Thursday, August 1, 2013
In My Little Town
I've always been a city person, loving the rush and color and excitement of urban streets. Now if I want that adrenaline surge, I go to another country. It doesn't have to be on another continent--Vancouver B.C. works just fine.
In my city, the streets are hazardous. I used to love walking downtown. Now I'm always on the lookout so I don't step in human excrement. How did this come to pass?
When I borrow books from the library, I bring them home and pop them into my little freezer compartment for three days. When they come back out, they go in a ziplock bag when I'm not reading them. Below-freezing temperatures kill bedbugs after three days, a librarian at the University of Washington was quoted as saying. The eggs live on until a second freezing period takes place--that's why I use a ziplock bag.
We have a world-famous library downtown. I rarely go there anymore. It's a hangout for people who have nowhere else to go; they fill computer stations and tables and reading areas on every floor. While I'm glad they have a place to go, they make me sad and when I'm browsing the stacks on upper levels, they make me uneasy. I go to my little neighborhood library instead, requesting that books from other branches be transferred there. If you think I'm exaggerating, do a google search for the illuminating article about the Rem Koolhas-designed public library that was published in the Atlantic shortly after I returned to Seattle almost two years ago. Things haven't changed a bit since 2011; in fact they are worse.
A bus ride on the King County Metro system is something few people experience unless they have to. I've never owned a car or even a driver's licence, but after being on the same bus as a naked man wrapped only in a blanket, or with a man who vomited in front of the driver instead of presenting his fare, or having a man profusely bleeding from the face argue vociferously for his right to embark, or sitting beside countless pitbulls, I'm beginning to wish I could afford a chauffeur.
My neighborhood has its share of indigent people with personality disorders, and the sidewalks are cracked and uneven. Even so the concrete is clean and all kinds of people walk on it--it's a pedestrian's area. Few people panhandle or sit on the sidewalks with their bags and their dogs and their cardboard signs. I rarely leave the boundaries of Chinatown--unless I go to another country.
Seattle is supposed to be one of America's most livable cities--if you live in a buffered version of it. Otherwise find a neighborhood you love and stay there.
In my city, the streets are hazardous. I used to love walking downtown. Now I'm always on the lookout so I don't step in human excrement. How did this come to pass?
When I borrow books from the library, I bring them home and pop them into my little freezer compartment for three days. When they come back out, they go in a ziplock bag when I'm not reading them. Below-freezing temperatures kill bedbugs after three days, a librarian at the University of Washington was quoted as saying. The eggs live on until a second freezing period takes place--that's why I use a ziplock bag.
We have a world-famous library downtown. I rarely go there anymore. It's a hangout for people who have nowhere else to go; they fill computer stations and tables and reading areas on every floor. While I'm glad they have a place to go, they make me sad and when I'm browsing the stacks on upper levels, they make me uneasy. I go to my little neighborhood library instead, requesting that books from other branches be transferred there. If you think I'm exaggerating, do a google search for the illuminating article about the Rem Koolhas-designed public library that was published in the Atlantic shortly after I returned to Seattle almost two years ago. Things haven't changed a bit since 2011; in fact they are worse.
A bus ride on the King County Metro system is something few people experience unless they have to. I've never owned a car or even a driver's licence, but after being on the same bus as a naked man wrapped only in a blanket, or with a man who vomited in front of the driver instead of presenting his fare, or having a man profusely bleeding from the face argue vociferously for his right to embark, or sitting beside countless pitbulls, I'm beginning to wish I could afford a chauffeur.
My neighborhood has its share of indigent people with personality disorders, and the sidewalks are cracked and uneven. Even so the concrete is clean and all kinds of people walk on it--it's a pedestrian's area. Few people panhandle or sit on the sidewalks with their bags and their dogs and their cardboard signs. I rarely leave the boundaries of Chinatown--unless I go to another country.
Seattle is supposed to be one of America's most livable cities--if you live in a buffered version of it. Otherwise find a neighborhood you love and stay there.
Wednesday, July 10, 2013
Non-Developing Country
I now live in Seattle, a burgeoning city of a developed country. Outside my window blares the construction noise that will eventually become a streetcar that will extend for not much more than a mile through the city. It is in proximity to a lightrail system that runs from the airport to downtown, with stops along the way. For years there has been construction that will become a lightrail spur that will extend the line by another three miles at best. The city at present depends on a bus system which faces extreme cutbacks due to budgetary shortfalls. This is not a matter of concern to many of the city's residents--they have private automobiles.
Bangkok has a love affair with private automobiles that arguably exceeds that held by Seattle. A middle-class family in Bangkok frequently has a car for each member old enough to drive, and a car and driver for those who can't yet reach the steering wheel. In spite of the notorious traffic jams that bring the city to a standstill, people cling to the comfort and privacy of a car. Even so, Bangkok has spent years and a lot of money on public transit.
At first the passengers on the Skytrain were mostly tourists. Bangkok residents who used public transit stuck to the buses, which carried passengers at a fraction of the Skytrain's cost. The subway, except for commuter rush hours, was almost empty. But not any more--and the people who crowd into these conveyances are local, covering a wide gamut of income brackets.
The cliche "If you build it, they will come," proved true in a city that at first was lukewarm toward high-speed mass transit. In the U.S. only Los Angeles seems truly committed to providing an alternative to the automobile--imagine, the city with the most highly developed car culture is working full-tilt on a regional subway system.
Meanwhile in Seattle, I spend hours every week waiting for a bus. Often I discover that the bus I'm waiting for now longer exists. The ones that are still in the system hold no allegiance to any sort of schedule. As I used to in Bangkok years ago, I now figure two hours to go anywhere by bus in Seattle. If I'm early, good--I'll relax over coffee and a paper. However, I always am accompanied by a strong sense of irony, realizing that as Thailand becomes more of a developing country, the United States is achieving the status of a non-developing one.
Tuesday, June 25, 2013
Paradise:Gross
The opening scene of Paradise :
Love is one that shows a number of developmentally disabled young adults
driving bumper cars at an amusement park. The camera lingers on them for quite
a while, as they gleefully scoot around the floor, unaware of the power that
the cars give them, just having one hell of a good time. Before this
degenerates into crashes and bullying and bad feelings, a caregiver calls a
halt to the outing and everyone gets up and leaves.
This sort of happy ending eludes the caregiver herself, when
she embarks upon her own private amusement park, a beach resort in Kenya complete
with rent boys. At first she’s titillated and amused, with a dash of delighted
horror, when a fellow Eurohag tells her of the special extracurricular
activities that lie in wait for her. This hausfrau is initially enchanted by
monkeys on her balcony, the sight of beach and sea, the pleasures of cigarettes
and cocktails beneath palm trees and the open sky. There’s a sweetness to her
pleasure upon arrival; her broad and simple smile, her wide, blue stare, the
unashamed bulges of her exposed flesh. She’s a woman without artifice, not
particularly bright, who’s thrilled to be on holiday.
But she’s being singled out as an unattached source of ready
money. Whisked off by an enterprising charmer, she ends up fending off his unsophisticated advances in a stark little room. Later she asks her compatriots, all women of a
certain age, all well aware of the fleshly delights that surround them, “Don’t
you just wish someone would look into your eyes?”
The lady wants romance, she wants to be desired, she wants
her middle-aged fantasies to come true. The man of her dreams rescues her from
a crowd of importunate beach vendors, assures her that she is special,
beautiful, alluring. And for a brief moment she is. Her pink, floppy flesh
takes on true loveliness as she lies naked in a post-coital nap. Her smile is
radiant. She wanders hand in hand through a beach village with a truly gorgeous
man who has chosen her, who has absorbed her lessons in the art of tender
seduction, who looks into her eyes. Then he begins the long litany of family
disasters that require money—her money and lots of it. When his “sister” turns
out to be his wife, paradise begins to curdle around the edges.
Deprived of romance, the hausfrau becomes a harpy. A series
of harrowing scenes showing how thoroughly power corrupts become increasingly
difficult to watch. Finally the woman who had happily shared a soapy shower
with a bedmate, gleefully cleaning and being cleaned, ends up barking orders at
the man of the minute, telling him to bathe thoroughly as she waits, sprawled
on a bed, drunken and sweaty in her stained and crumpled dress.
Sex tourism has been insufficiently examined, and rarely
from the female point of view. The parameters of the sex trade have been
defined by men, and, like it or not, they have made a fairly straightforward
business of it. Money changes hands, love is not required, romance is
unnecessary. The male flesh is willing and the female flesh is able to pretend.
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